Chasing Big Waves and Bold Developments – Choosing Challenging Paths On and Off the Water

What makes you want to surf something that could easily crush or kill you? Do something most sane people are convinced is crazy? Or want to do things other people run away from?

You can trot out the tired Mallory quote, “Because it’s there,” but that doesn’t provide any insight and is so shop-worn that it is relegated to cliché.

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