Comfortable in the Uncomfortable ━ Or why training for Nazaré is all in your head

Surrounded in liquid silence, the beating of your heart marks time as you count down to seconds until you can emerge. Five, four, three, two, and then you try to hang on a bit longer. 

Once you burst from the water, as instructed, you face the three-story solid concrete wall of the aquatic training facility just twenty-five feet away and imagine it’s the next towering wave rushing towards you. You do a “dump breath” to fully empty your lungs, then one huge inhalation, then it’s back down to listen to your heartbeat as it begins the relentless count until you can breathe again.

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Chasing Big Waves and Bold Developments – Choosing Challenging Paths On and Off the Water

What makes you want to surf something that could easily crush or kill you? Do something most sane people are convinced is crazy? Or want to do things other people run away from?

You can trot out the tired Mallory quote, “Because it’s there,” but that doesn’t provide any insight and is so shop-worn that it is relegated to cliché.

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